Discover Toledo through the eyes of American traveler Saul Schwartz, who is exploring the top attractions around the Spanish capital. Wondering what are the must-see attractions in and around Madrid? Here, Saul explains whether Toledo is worth a full day and recommends taking a free walking tour to discover the hidden gems of this World Heritage Site.
Saul Schwartz
Toledo is probably the most popular day trip destination from Madrid, and most visitors arrive at the beautiful train station. Built in 1919, Toledo Train Station reflects the city’s historic architecture. The central section is flanked by two side naves, one of which is adjacent to the bell tower. The interior features beautiful stained glass windows, horseshoe arches, and a richly decorated doorway.
From Toledo train station it was a steep one-mile walk into the city center. It was a beautiful walk across the Tagus River, which we had just seen in Lisbon, Portugal. We admired buildings from the 16th century and earlier, including an arched bridge from the Roman period.
We chose a free tour from Guru Walk, where the guides offer tips based on tips. The tour was called Discover Historic Toledo, and our guide was Alberto from Follow Me Toledo. The tour started at Plaza Zocodover, the main square in Toledo. We walked past a bronze statue of Spanish writer Cervantes (author of Don Quixote) and entered the square through a Moorish arch with a bell tower on top. There were a few fast food chains in the square, but there was a very nice supermarket next to the square where we bought food for dinner.
The tour focused on how three different religions came together in Toledo at different times. Part of what makes Toledo so special is its Christian, Jewish, and Muslim roots. We spent some time in front of the Cathedral of Toledo and decided to explore the interior after the tour.
We especially enjoyed learning about Toledo’s once large Jewish population. Although the Jewish population is small now, the 14th century synagogue building has been converted into a museum. The Jewish Quarter is where the Jews lived during the Middle Ages. We thought it was particularly interesting that the city installed blue and white tile markers on the sidewalks and ancient walls to identify the streets of the Jewish Quarter. These markers include a menorah and the word “living” written in Hebrew. At one of the entrances to the Jewish Quarter, the street has the inscription “Jewish Quarter” written in English, Hebrew, and Spanish.
At the end of our tour we visited Casa Palacio Rincon, a 9th century palatial residence that has been converted into rental housing but still retains some of the charm of an ancient palace.
After the walking tour, we chose to visit the Roman Catholic Cathedral. Tickets are available at the ticket office near the Cathedral and are 10 euros for adults. The Cathedral is just a short walk from Zocodover Square. This magnificent Gothic building is not to be missed!
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The church was started in the 13th century and completed in the 15th century. Its exterior is an example of French Gothic architecture. It is one of the most magnificent churches in Spain. The church was built on top of a Muslim mosque. There is a tower on the left side of the main facade. During the walking tour, we learned that there is a large bell in the tower, which cannot be used due to cracks. There are three large doors on the main facade.
The church is spacious inside with beautiful stained glass rose windows, ribbed vaults and pointed arches. The artwork inside the church is impressive, including many works by Spanish artist El Greco. We were also amazed by the colorful ceiling frescoes.
The high-speed train from Madrid Atocha train station only takes about thirty minutes and costs 22 euros round trip. This very comfortable high-speed train runs several times a day. We were unable to purchase tickets online in advance on the Renfe website using a US credit card. When we went to the Atocha train station to purchase our tickets, our options for the time of day were limited.
The large Atocha train station is under construction so it can be difficult to find the right route. To make matters more confusing there are several different Renfe ticket offices but only one sells tickets for the high-speed trains. I recommend leaving some time to find the right ticket office and arriving early to get more train options.
Saul currently resides in Alexandria, Virginia, and has lived in Washington, DC since 1984. He enjoys traveling through Europe with his wife and family, and especially enjoys interacting with local residents and learning about life in their cities and countries.
Saul has previously shared his travel insights with us. Check out his Lisbon 4-Day City Guide Or check out his travels Modern Athens—Beyond the Acropolis Or he Vatican City: The Pope’s Rome.