Review: Unforgettable Croatian Coastal Cruise – Part 1

My 7 nights Croatia The coastal cruise from Dubrovnik to Split started with my driver meeting me at Dubrovnik Airport. The private air-conditioned car took me through the emerald islands dotted in the sparkling Adriatic Sea, and then a smooth descent through the limestone mountains weathered for thousands of years to the port of Dubrovnik.

My Wish is a sleek, shiny yacht with 18 cabins and 36 berths, ready for a week of exploring the Croatian coast and islands of the Adriatic Sea.

Launched in 2020, this small vessel is able to moor to islands and anchor in secluded bays, giving it a unique and intimate private yacht feel. Unforgettable Croatia credo asks, “Why be ordinary?”

welcome

We boarded the plane at 2pm and gathered for a reception with sparkling wine and hors d’oeuvres. Australia,Canada, U.K. and USAWe had previously researched this ship and itinerary on the Unforgettable Croatia app. Now it was a dream come true when our cruise director Lana welcomed us in fluent English.

The generous welcome gift includes a bottle of Croatian wine, a bottle of water, a tote bag, a restaurant guide and a card for a 10% discount in selected restaurants.

cabin

Lana showed me to a light grey, air-conditioned cabin with a balcony. The bed could be configured as two singles or a double. A wall-mounted TV, robes and slippers were luxuries. Meanwhile, my passport was kept in the safe for a week.

The bathroom was very spacious by cruise ship standards, with lots of light and a shower. The door led to the balcony which had two chairs and a table.

Day 1: Dubrovnik

In the early evening, we took a 15-minute bus ride to the majestic Pillars entrance to Dubrovnik’s Old Town. Inside the 1.2-mile city walls, Lana took us through a thousand years of dramatic history in a city that recently became the setting for Game of Thrones. Back in the Middle Ages, Dubrovnik became a wealthy city-state through its courage and diplomatic skills, trading with the powerful Venetian and Ottoman empires.

But after the 1667 earthquake and tsunami, and the subsequent fire, little of the era’s Gothic splendor remains. Our tour takes us to St. Saviour’s Church and the ornate Gothic cloistered Rector’s Palace, two of the few buildings that have survived.

Lana introduces us to the surprisingly liberal mentality of the people of Dubrovnik. She points out that there was a lazy Susan arrangement where mothers who were unable to raise their children could send them to an orphanage without shame. Remarkably, this arrangement dates back to 1408.

In the 16th century, the city abolished slavery and women were given the right to own businesses and property ahead of time. Aware of the risk of corruption, the rector could only rule the city for a month…

Once back on board, we’ll be treated to a welcome cocktail before enjoying a three-course set menu dinner.

Day 2: Dubrovnik – Slano

For a select few, the day begins with a workout in the outdoor mini gym on the sun deck, but for most, the day begins with a hearty breakfast buffet that includes plenty of fresh fruit and eggs cooked to order: Benedict, omelets, scrambled eggs.

We then set sail to get a close look at the majestic harbor walls, sometimes 85 feet high and 16 feet thick. They served their purpose for centuries until the city fell to Napoleon.

A small group of people interested in learning more about Croatian history gathered on the upper deck to listen to Lana’s stories about Croatia’s past and how the older generation still missed the comfortable life of full employment under Marshal Tito’s communist regime, even though Tito’s spies often eavesdropped on their conversations.

Past governments have warned judges not to impose harsh sentences when the depressing south wind blows, given its negative effects on mental health. In contrast, the cool north wind, the Bura, is welcomed as a cleansing force for the soul.

Once the boat drops anchor near the rugged, pine-lined coast, it’s time to take a dip in the clear waters, which are rated the cleanest in Europe. There’s time for another swim after a light three-course lunch on board. As the temperature rises, the cicadas get louder.

In the evening, the small fishing village of Slano is the starting point for an oyster tasting drive. We pass a five-mile-long medieval wall built to protect the salt marshes from Ottoman invasions. In the Middle Ages, salt was as precious as gold.

A small boat takes us to an oyster farm where 3 to 4 million Mali Ston oysters are produced each year. These oysters thrive in clear fresh and salt water, and local demand for them is so great that none are exported. The chance of an oyster egg surviving for three years and being harvested is one in 500,000.

Back on land, on the terrace of a restaurant in Stone, oysters and a cool, crisp white wine were the starters of a three-course dinner: black squid ink risotto, swordfish and, finally, flan.

Day 3: Mljet and Korcula Islands

We anchored on the island of Mljet and hiked 25 minutes to the lake in the national park, which covers much of the island’s northwest corner. Thirty species of orchids dotted the landscape among the Aleppo pines and holm oaks.

Our ticket includes a solar-powered boat ride across the larger of the two lakes to the small island of Sainte-Marie. There is a small Benedictine monastery and a café terrace here, one of the most idyllic coffee breaks in the world. If you walk along the lake, you can wave a red flag to call for a ferry to take you to the island. As the lake temperature can reach 30 degrees Celsius in summer, swimming is irresistible. However, renting a bike and kayak is also a good option.

In the early afternoon we set off for Korčula, one of Croatia’s most populated islands, where the Venetian winged lion lends an Italian touch to the old town. Stonemasons have been busy carving limestone for centuries, including the Tree of Life around the entrance door to St. Michael’s Church. The columns on the right show time speeding up, while the columns on the left represent symbols of death. The three brotherhoods of trades still thrive, organizing 55 processions throughout the year. During Easter, a man carries 80 kg of candles. He is only allowed to say the “Ave Maria” three times before putting down the candles to rest.

Our guide, Andrea, was a seer who wasn’t entirely convinced that the town was the birthplace of explorer Marco Polo in 1324, despite septencentenary celebrations. She was more impressed by the exploits of British baron Sir Fitzroy Maclean, perhaps the prototype of MI6’s James Bond. Maclean secretly parachuted into Yugoslavia in 1943 and may have persuaded the top commanders not to bomb Korčula. Unforgettable Croatia’s knowledgeable guides told stories that went beyond the usual tales.

The town’s mid-century designers were ahead of their time, designing a herringbone street layout that took advantage of sea breezes for natural air conditioning, but curving the alleys on the right to reduce the wind’s effects. They also staggered windows and doors for privacy.

Restaurants along the town wall promenade are a great choice for Privilege discount cards. As the sun sets, Filippi’s outdoor tables are shaded by a mature pine tree, offering stunning views over the bay and the Korcula Archipelago. Michelin-recommended, Filippi’s modern interpretation of Dalmatian cuisine uses traditional herbs and local handmade pasta.

The adventure continues

Just three days into our Croatian exploration, one guest declared, “I’m not sure if I’ll ever be able to return to real life after this.”

But there were still many leagues to sail, and views of the Blue Cave, Vis Island, Hvar Island and Split to enjoy.

fact

Unforgettable Croatia offers a seven-night cruise from £1,795 per person or $2,295, including breakfast, lunch, private transfers, all excursions and Wi-Fi. Flights are not included. For more information on departure dates from May to October 2025, visit Unforgettable Croatia or call +44 20 8004 2345

Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Unforgettable Croatia.